A Guide to Cross-Stitch Fabrics

Your fabric is the foundation of every cross-stitch project. It determines how large your finished piece will be, how your stitches look, and honestly, how much you enjoy the stitching process itself. If you’ve only ever used the Aida that came in a kit, there’s a whole world of fabric options waiting for you — and understanding them will open up new possibilities for your projects.

Understanding Fabric Count

The single most important number when choosing cross-stitch fabric is the count. Fabric count tells you how many stitches fit in one inch:

• 14-count = 14 stitches per inch (each stitch is about 1.8mm)
• 16-count = 16 stitches per inch (each stitch is about 1.6mm)
• 18-count = 18 stitches per inch (each stitch is about 1.4mm)
• 28-count (over 2 threads) = 14 stitches per inch

Higher count = smaller stitches = more detail in the same space = more time to stitch.

This is why the same pattern stitched on 14-count and 18-count will be noticeably different sizes. A design that’s 140 stitches wide will measure 10 inches on 14-count but only about 7.8 inches on 18-count.

Calculating Finished Size

To figure out how large a design will be on any fabric:

Design stitches ÷ fabric count = inches

A pattern that’s 200 x 150 stitches on 16-count fabric:

• Width: 200 ÷ 16 = 12.5 inches
• Height: 150 ÷ 16 = 9.375 inches

Always add at least 3 inches on each side for framing margins.

Aida Cloth: The Beginner’s Best Friend

Aida is a stiff, evenly woven fabric with a distinctive grid pattern. The squares are clearly visible and each square represents one stitch. This is what makes it so beginner-friendly — you can count squares easily and the holes are obvious.

Available Counts

• 11-count: The largest common size. Very easy to see but produces large, chunky designs. Good for children, people with vision difficulties, or decorative items viewed from a distance.
• 14-count: The standard. Most patterns and kits assume 14-count unless stated otherwise. The sweet spot between visibility and detail.
• 16-count: A nice step up for intermediate stitchers who want slightly more detail without going too small.
• 18-count: The finest Aida most stitchers use. Produces beautiful detail but requires good lighting and possibly magnification.
• 20-count and 22-count: They exist, but at this point most stitchers switch to evenweave or linen instead.

Pros of Aida

• Easy to count: The grid is built right in.
• Stiff and forgiving: Holds its shape well, even without a hoop (though you should still use one).
• Widely available: Every craft store carries it.
• Affordable: The least expensive cross-stitch fabric.
• Comes in many colors: White, cream, black, red, blue, green — you name it.

Cons of Aida

• Visible grid: On pieces with exposed fabric (not full-coverage), you can see the grid pattern. Some stitchers find this less refined.
• Stiffness: Can feel rigid and makes draping impossible. Not great for items like bookmarks that need to flex.
• Limited high counts: Aida doesn’t come in counts above 22 for very fine work.
• Fractional stitches are harder: Piercing the center of an Aida square for quarter and three-quarter stitches requires a sharp needle and some force.

Evenweave Fabrics: The Middle Ground

Evenweave fabrics have individual threads woven in a regular over-under pattern where the horizontal and vertical threads are the same thickness. Unlike Aida, there’s no built-in grid — you stitch over 2 threads in each direction, and each stitch spans a 2x2 thread intersection.

This means 28-count evenweave produces the same stitch size as 14-count Aida (28 threads ÷ 2 = 14 stitches per inch).

Popular Evenweave Brands

Lugana is the most popular evenweave. It has a soft hand, a subtle texture, and comes in a huge range of counts and colors. 25-count and 28-count Lugana are staples in many stitchers’ stash.

Jobelan is another smooth, soft evenweave. It has a slightly different texture than Lugana but works beautifully for cross-stitch. It’s available in 28-count and 32-count.

Why Choose Evenweave?

• Smoother appearance: The fabric surface looks more refined than Aida, especially where fabric shows through the design.
• Softer hand: More pleasant to stitch on and better for items that need to drape or flex.
• Easier fractional stitches: The thread-based weave makes it natural to stitch into the center for quarter stitches.
• More count options: Available in counts from 25 to 32+, giving you finer control over finished size.

The Learning Curve

If you’ve only stitched on Aida, evenweave takes a small adjustment. Instead of counting squares, you’re counting thread pairs. Some stitchers find it helpful to grid the fabric (mark every 10 stitches) when they first switch to evenweave. After a few projects, counting becomes second nature.

Linen: The Gold Standard

Linen is the traditional cross-stitch fabric, used for centuries in European embroidery. It’s made from flax fibers and has a distinctive character that many experienced stitchers love.

What Makes Linen Different

Unlike evenweave, linen threads are not perfectly uniform. Some threads are slightly thicker or thinner than others, creating a subtle, organic texture. This unevenness is not a flaw — it’s the character that makes linen pieces look distinctively handcrafted and elegant.

You stitch over 2 threads on linen, just like evenweave. Common counts include 28, 32, 36, and 40.

Popular Linen Brands

Zweigart Belfast (32-count) and Zweigart Edinburgh (36-count) are two of the most beloved linens for cross-stitch. Zweigart Cashel (28-count) offers a slightly more open weave for those new to linen.

Pros of Linen

• Beautiful texture: The subtle irregularity gives finished pieces an heirloom quality.
• Incredible drape: Softer and more fabric-like than Aida or evenweave.
• Archival quality: Linen lasts for generations. Many antique samplers stitched on linen centuries ago are still in excellent condition.
• Natural beauty: Even the bare fabric is attractive, which is lovely for designs with open areas.

Cons of Linen

• Harder to count: The thread irregularity can make counting challenging, especially at higher counts.
• More expensive: Linen costs significantly more than Aida or cotton evenweave.
• Less forgiving: Mistakes in counting are harder to spot until you’ve stitched a section.
• Can be intimidating: The lack of a visible grid scares some stitchers, but this is mostly psychological — the technique is the same.

Specialty Fabrics

Beyond the main three, there are fabrics for specific purposes:

Perforated Paper

Stiff paper with pre-punched holes for stitching. Wonderful for ornaments, bookmarks, gift tags, and anything that needs to hold its shape without framing. Available in 14-count, in white and other colors. Easy to cut into shapes after stitching.

Plastic Canvas

Rigid plastic mesh, usually 7-count or 10-count. Used for three-dimensional projects like boxes, coasters, and holiday ornaments. Durable and waterproof but produces large, chunky stitches.

Waste Canvas

A temporary grid fabric that you baste onto clothing, towels, or other items, stitch your design through both layers, then carefully remove the waste canvas threads one by one. This lets you cross-stitch onto any fabric. It’s a bit tedious to remove but produces great results on items like denim jackets, tote bags, and baby clothes.

Water-Soluble Canvas

Similar concept to waste canvas, but instead of pulling threads, you dissolve the canvas in water after stitching. Faster and easier than traditional waste canvas but requires that your base fabric can get wet.

Choosing Fabric Color

Your fabric color is the background of your design, and it has a bigger impact than many beginners realize.

White and off-white are the safe defaults. They work for almost any design and make colors pop. White is crisper and more modern; off-white (sometimes called “antique white” or “cream”) is warmer and more traditional.

Colored fabrics can dramatically change a design. A pattern designed on white might look completely different — and sometimes better — on light blue, sage green, or pale pink. This works especially well for designs that leave some fabric showing.

Dark fabrics (black, navy, dark green) create stunning high-contrast results but are significantly harder to stitch on because the holes are difficult to see. If you’re curious, read our guide on stitching on dark and colored fabrics for tips and tricks.

Fabric Care and Preparation

Before you start stitching:

1. Pre-wash if needed: Most cross-stitch fabric doesn’t need pre-washing, but if you’re stitching on something that will be laundered (like a towel or clothing), pre-wash the fabric to account for shrinkage.
2. Prevent fraying: The edges of your fabric will fray as you work. Prevent this by whip-stitching the edges, applying masking tape, or using a product like Fray Check.
3. Iron if wrinkled: A quick press removes packaging creases. Use a medium iron with steam.
4. Find the grain: Make sure you’re cutting along the grain of the fabric, not at an angle. Pull a single thread to create a cutting line if needed.

Choosing by Skill Level

Just starting out? Stick with 14-count Aida in white or cream. Learn the stitch mechanics without adding fabric complications.

Comfortable with the basics? Try 16-count Aida for more detail, or take the leap to 28-count evenweave (Lugana is a great first evenweave). The stitch size is the same as 14-count Aida, but the fabric is softer and the finish is smoother.

Ready for a challenge? Explore linen, try higher count fabrics (32 or 36-count), or experiment with dark and colored fabrics. The learning curve is real but the results are worth it.

Continue Learning

• Getting Started with Cross-Stitch — all the basics for your first project
• Stitching on Dark and Colored Fabrics — techniques for working on non-white fabric
• Choosing Your First Cross-Stitch Project — pick the right project for your skill level
• How to Wash, Finish, and Frame Your Cross-Stitch — properly care for your work on any fabric